16/08/2008

How I would love to have coffee with you.

And that's not only because they are lacking on the cappuccinos around here.

If we would go for coffee, I'd show some of our 700 pictures, tell you some stories - some humorous and some not so humorous.

I haven't been around an internet much lately and haven't been able to update you as to how the trip is going. It is a very different world out here when you are a white, young female, traveling alone. The fun and games pretty much came to an end when Tom walked out of our hotel room in David the day he left for Canada. Overall, its been good, but it has been tough. It is incredible to be on the other side of the prejudice\racist line. A good learning experience. Not necessarily an entirely enjoyable one though.

San Felix is a pretty much a small-town kind of place. Maybe about a 1000 residents or so. An extra resident is usually noticed, an extra white female is a spectacle. When one of us leaves the house, we are on display. Not many whites are around here yet, and our way of life, natural social reactions, language, laughter, and overall appearance is new. Many are naturally and innocently curious. Many are excited, many are suspicious. From the corner of your eye you can see a group of children daring each other to say hi to one of us. Sure enough, one is pushed towards me, he taps me on the arm, then waves and runs.

No matter where we go, we are constantly reminded that we are setting a precedent, we are representing North Americans as a whole in some of these communities. This situation is even more intense in the rural mountainous regions we are working in. Here, we are so interesting to the people that the children come and stand in our doorway, bare foot and some with bloated bellies, just to look at us. For hours. When we close the door for some privacy, some climb up to watch us through the windows. They all know where we are, where we are staying. Even in San Felix, when we hail a taxi, they drive straight to our house - before even inquiring where we live. One driver asked Tom and I ''Are you staying at the house that is white?'' We answered no, so he automatically drove to our pink house. The caucasian Peace Corp volunteers that live in San Felix are staying in a white house.

When we walk to our destination, such as the store, a part of the whole experience are the cat-calls and car horns from men, glares from women, and, when we arrive at the store, being overcharged for items no matter who is behind the cash register. White = desirable. White = money.

This has been a long standing struggle. In moments we represent all of us from North America. So what do you do? Get upset? Go into a rant in broken Spanish? Put up with the overcharging and let this happen to the rest of us that will come through? When men rush to you to say "Good day!" Do you respond?
  • If not...Does this create a label that all caucasian women are stuck-up and racist against latins?

  • If so...Does this display unintended interest?
How do you display proper kindness? And, where in the world did this power dynamic come from? We can talk for hours and hours over our coffee about theories, proper responses, and ways to 'fit-in'. But lets get real, we are staying in a house 6 times larger than most families, I am typing on a personal laptop with a headset and camera for skype. I have shoes on my feet.

Although it is a struggle to not have my blood boiled ever time I venture out, I can't imagine the struggle other racial groups face on a daily basis in other parts of the world. Here, I am whining because of the attention we get over desirable skin colour and the automatic response that we have money, etc. But what about the first black Canadians or Americans entering a new town? What about those from the middle east? They may have sales clerks rushing to their sides too, and people watching their houses, but probably for different reasons.

I feel that I need to take a moment here and defend the many, many fantastic people we have met and are working with. Lets make sure a few people's reactions don't lead to us being prejudiced against a people group. I am concerned that I may be sounding a bit harsh, and I don't want you walking away from this e-mail thinking things are awful, unenjoyable, or harsh.

Overall the trip is still going well. I am so glad to be in San Felix with Carli. Not only is she really fun and full of life, but we also think alike on many theoretical and philosophical issues. Yesterday we spent the entire evening cooking food we gathered from our own backyard and talking about life, traveling, making a difference, idealism versus realism, what we can actually accomplish with our lives, and in order for this world to change - who needs to change in this world and how we can go about facilitating that change. We have both been awakened to the reality of this world through being here in Panama. Panama is supposedly most developed and stable economy in Latin America. Yet, the stories of domestic abuse, corruption, and palm-greasing that goes on here is amazing. Makes you wonder what the reality in Canada is, are we really that much better?

I am staying with friends in Dolega, near David, when Carli has been away. Needless to say that my husband ensured I would never be staying in this town alone. This coming week we are heading out to the remote area of Chorcha. It is a few hours ride in, in a transport vehicle that trained individuals drive to ensure safety. No worries, we have one of those drivers. And, on Tuesday, I will be getting back out on horseback. Yes, you read that right, by horse and guide. Here's hoping we make it out by the time the monsoon rains come. Did I mention that the academic life is a bit different down here?

On Tuesday I am planning on returning to the beautiful town of Boquete where I will be staying with a host family and attending a Spanish school for a few days of Spanish immersion. Not because I need a few more challenges, but because my mad desire to learn Spanish is stronger than ever before. I love the language, and, believe it or note, I love the people. Life is different, can you really expect anything else from a foreign country? And, as far as the outsider-dilemmas are concerned - if Tom and I feel called to ministries abroad, these are some of the issues that come with the package. So, in a way, all of these challenges have been a great exposure and learning opportunity for our life to come.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

We are always representing someone much greater than just North Americans - we are His hands and feet and voice. I know that you are doing this very well. Coffee, my house, internet, telephone anytime. Love and hugs